Omiwatari

"Once upon a time, there were a goddess named Yasakatome-no Mikoto (八坂刀売命) and a god, Takeminakata-no Mikoto (建御名方命). When the Goddess alone moved to the Lower Shrine, the God missed her so much but found that Lake Suwa was too large to cross. Then, when Lake Suwa was frozen over, he took the chance and walked over the ice to her shrine.

Today his footsteps are said to be Omiwatari. (This natural phenomenon is said to be caused as water expands with freezing in winter. The straight line of the sharp upheaval appears on the surface, and is called Omiwatari.) People used to regard Omiwatari as the sign which insured safety on the ice. When it came, they would step on Lake Suwa."

So goes a local Japanese legend. I went to Suwa-ko yesterday to try and see this rare phenomenon and also visit my friend John, my old Nova colleague.

Unfortunately, my efforts to see this natural phenomenon was thwarted by another natural phenomenon; massive snowstorms. Yesterday I saw the biggest snowfall I've ever seen. Possibly 40 or 50cm fell in about 24 hours in some parts of Nagano. They even managed to cause widespread delays to Japan's famously punctual trains. Nagano is used to heavy snow so was actually well equipped to deal with the conditions.

Unfortunately , the amount of snow meant you couldn't see where the road stopped and where lake Suwa began, never mind the omiwatari (the picture is a file photo).

All was not lost though. We had a very fine lunch at an Indian restaurant. I caught up with what has happened to everyone since Nova has shut (most have found new jobs). Before the cold froze my camera I took these photos. The views of the Japan Alps in the snowstorm on the train ride down were spectacular. There is a public foot onsen in Suwa. We had the most bizarre experience of having a foot bath in front of a frozen lake in the middle of a snowstorm. It was quite fun.